I am back in Oregon! I was very sad to leave Niger but I’m also happy to get back to the life I left here. I know my last post was a bit cryptic so here is more about what is happening in Niger and why I chose to leave. Before I left for Niger I was aware that there had been Al Qaeda kidnappings of Westerners in Niger. They concerned me but seemed a good distance from where volunteers are placed. The kidnapping attempt last month was particularly scary to us because it happened in Tahoua, which is next to Maradi. It was also the first attempt to kidnap an American (eight of them). We were all consolidated in our regions for 10 days until the Peace Corps administration had assessed the situation. The region of Tahoua was shut down and all volunteers from that region choosing to stay will be put in new villages in other regions. Volunteers were given the option of going back to their villages and complying with a lot of new security and travel measures or going home. Those of us leaving Niger were given the status of “interrupted service,” which means that we left our assignments because of circumstances outside of our control.
I had concerns about safety in my village because it is on the national highway at the intersection of a nice road to the North and a convenient route to Nigeria to the South. It is a larger town so it gets a lot of traffic; it’s not a bush village where any outsiders would be noticed. After consolidation was over, I really couldn’t make up my mind. But then, while making my decision, the trainees that had arrived in October were removed from Niger and sent to Madagascar. Shortly after that, a French researcher was kidnapped on the Mali-Niger border. I did have a lot of the “chances are, it’s not going to happen to me” thoughts, but I found that my threshold for the risk of being kidnapped was much lower than my risk tolerance for say, house robbery. One of the great experiences of living in Niger is that there are so few foreigners. Unlike most other places, we rarely saw other foreigners (outside of Niamey). When visiting a friend’s large-ish town for the first time, I asked a child sitting near the taxi stand “Ina anasara?” (“Where’s the white person/foreigner?”) and I was taken directly to his house. That condition of being such a striking minority added to my feelings of insecurity. Lastly, Niger’s President Tandja unconstitutionally extended his term several months ago; presidential elections were scheduled to take place at the end of this month. The international community has been upset with Tandja and many countries have stated that they will pull out aid if he doesn’t step down, which means a shrinking foreign presence in Niger.
So, I’m home and not really sure what’s next. If anyone is looking to hire someone with intermediate Hausa skills, extreme heat tolerance, and an MBA, give me a ring! I’ll be doing some traveling in the upcoming months and it will be nice to spend the holidays here. I left Niger with quite a few other people but I’ll be keeping up with my friends who decided to stay. This wasn’t the Peace Corps service I expected to get, but it’s the service I got and despite its early ending, I am very happy with it.
I’ve posted a bunch of photos from my time in Niger below. A little warning that there are some photos of animals being slaughtered in there. During the Muslim holiday of Tabaski in November, the custom is to slaughter and smoke sheep for family and friends. It’s a great holiday and a neat thing to see but a little bit bloody.
- A mosque in Maradi
- Men preparing meat for evening brochettes
- A Maradi gas stand
- A storefront – there is so much plastic!
- A woman frying some Nigerien style donuts in Maradi
- The Maradi city taxi stand
- This is a Maradi friend who sells egg sandwiches and coffee
- A girl selling bananas in front of the Maradi hostel
- At the bus station in Maradi
- The entrance to the Grand Marche (big market) in Maradi
- Entering the produce section of the Grand Marche
- Fried grasshoppers! They taste just like anything else friend with salt and spice.
- Women leaving the market
- Me with a really nice leather crafstman in Maradi
- One of my favorite things about Maradi was getting coconut strips on the street
- A soccer match in Maradi
- My cell phone very unfortunately fell down this toilet at the Maradi hostel
- Cariad, me, and Liz leaving the Maradi hostel
- A neighbor in Tchadoua
- The family that lived next to me in Tchadoua
- My neighbor, Salmou, in Tchadoua
- Kids playing in Tchadoua
- The central mosque in Tchadoua
- The bush taxi stand in Tchadoua
- Saying goodbye to my friends at the gas stand in Tchadoua
- Sheep skinning at Hasan’s for Tabaski
- More sheep cleaning at Hasan’s
- Smoking sheep in the afternoon on Tabaski
- Lots of sheep
- More sheep
- Two men sharing a motorcycle with a sheep
- Boys dressed up for Tabaski
- Girls dressed up for Tabaski
- Kids at school
- At a school opening
- A woman carrying millet
- Millet storage at harvest
- A dried up river bed just south of Maradi
- The Konni bus station bathrooms – worst latrines in Niger!
- Women in a bush taxi
- A bush taxi
- A very sad-looking bush taxi
- Another bush taxi
- Always a sucker for street dogs
- These guys are everywhere in Niger
- Sheep grazing during rainy season
- Thanksgiving dinner in Maradi!
- A toad burying himself
- A toad lost in my trunk
- The enormous turtle that lives at the Niamey swimming pool
- A donkey family! This donkey was two days old.
- Early in the morning in Tchadoua, I always found these funny tracks throughout my yard
- Anna’s kitten in front of a hat her villagers gave me
- Niger is so flat!
- A map of Niger at the Niamey hostel
- The Grand Mosque in Niamey
- The Grand Marche in Niamey
- The meat section of the Niamey Grand Marche
- In Niamey
- A statue at a roudpoint in Niamey
- The Niger River at sunset
- A pirogue on the Niger River
- More Niger River sunset
- The national museum and zoo in Niamey
- Warthogs at the Niamey zoo
- A crocodile at the Niamey zoo – not using much zoom on my camera here
- My wonderful boss, Ousmane, in his office in Niamey
















































































4 comments
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December 11, 2009 at 1:09 am
Lynn Adams
Katie – I am so sorry your time in Niger was cut short. My son Ryan (from Salem) is part of the PCT’s that arrived in Niger in October. He and the entire group re-located to Madagascar on December 8th. They were all extremely disappointed to leave Niger – as they had come to love the country and it’s friendly, happy people. But at the same time they were excited to be given the chance to continue their Peace Corp journey as a group.
I really enjoyed your pictures. Best wishes to you and have a happy holiday.
Lynn Adams, Salem, OR
December 11, 2009 at 1:30 am
Sarah
Thank you for posting this. I am the mother of one of your fellow PCVs, Audrey, and am interested in reading about your experience in Niger, and your decision to come home. What a difficult decision you have all been confronted with. I am glad you are home safely, and although I am immeasurably proud of Audrey, a big part of me wishes that she would also come home. I know that you made a difference, even in the short time you were there.
~Sarah
December 15, 2009 at 12:49 am
Gene
So glad you made it back safely & unharmed!
January 19, 2010 at 9:11 pm
Eric Scott ("SigmaX")
Best wishes with re-entry shock!